Every year, no matter where I was or how little time I had off, I went home for Christmas. Until this past December, that is.
I never really considered going home this year. I’d only been in London for four months and even though I would’ve loved to see my family, I wasn’t too keen on spending a lot of money to go back to Kentucky. Originally I’d been planning for my family to come to London, but with Christmas and Boxing day closures (and London weather at the end of December) that was seeming more and more like a bad idea. So when my good friend Cristiana invited me to spend Christmas with her family in Tuscany I was sold.
After spending a few days reuniting with Rome, I took a train to Florence where Cristiana and her mom picked me up to take me to their lovely house for the next few days.
Christmas in Piazza del Duomo in Florence
What was Italian Christmas like?
It was pretty much everything you’d expect Italian Christmas to be like. There were a lot of people speaking Italian very loudly, very quickly, and with a lot of large, dramatic hand gestures. It was also a lot like Christmas in the US. People debated sports (soccer, not football), talked about popular TV shows (apparently Joe Bastianich is a judge on Masterchef Italy and does a great job butchering the language), and debated the meaning of diversity and feminism.
Christmas selfie
There was also food. A lot of food.
Christmas Eve in Italy is a fish and seafood only affair owing to Roman Catholic tradition of abstinence. Don’t fool yourself into thinking that this means that you might find yourself hungry at the end of the meal. Far from it. Cristiana’s family does Christmas Eve buffet style and there was a lot to choose from: stuffed peppers, seafood salad, artichoke pie, potato fritters, smoked salmon, baccala, marinated octopus, different types of sandwiches, and ribollita were just some of the dishes at the table. In true holiday fashion, I ate until I felt sick. I justified this decision by telling myself it may be my only chance to experience Christmas in Italy. And it was all delicious, so it wasn’t really that hard of a justification.
Some of the spread. I was too busy eating to take another photo when the rest of the food was brought out.
I think ribollita is my new favorite winter food.
After dinner was cleared away dessert was brought out. It was at this point that I seriously thought I was going to be sick, so I politely refused the cake, cookies, and nuts that were offered. Until the cake house was brought out. I don’t know what it was called, but this cake in the shape of a small cottage, topped with chocolate and cookies, and filled with thick cream, was not just adorable, it was tasty too.
It wasn’t time to rest yet, though. Every year on Christmas Eve the city of Pietrasanta plays host to Camel Ponce. The festival is named in honor of a liquor drink sold at stands around the city. This drink, though, is probably one of the most disgusting things I’ve ever tasted, sorry to say. Imagine if moonshine, fake orange flavor, and cough syrup had a baby. That would be what camel ponce tastes like. Gross drink aside, it was really cool to see everyone filling the old piazza on Christmas Eve. There were people dressed as Santa and the whole event had a very celebratory feel to it.
On Christmas morning Cristiana and I woke up and tried to walk off the previous day’s meal, knowing full well that today would be another day of heavy eating.
After our walk we rejoined Cristiana’s extended family, this time at a restaurant. The place was located on a large property with a nice garden, and in warmer weather plenty of outdoor seating. Our table was located in a a small room with brick walls and lit only by candles. I chose to eat tordelli, a type of stuffed pasta that is native to Tuscany. And because I’m a masochist I also had a piece of pannetone and cream for dessert. Because it was Christmas.
After lunch we headed back to the house for some gambling. We usually play games at home on Christmas, but having money on them adds a whole other level of competition. I, unfortunately, had the worst luck ever and lost about 30 euro, but it was still a lot of fun.
Even though it was a little sad not to celebrate with my family back in the States, I had a wonderful time discovering Christmas in Italy. Cristiana’s family was so incredibly welcoming and hospitable and I thank them so much for their kindness, even in the face of a language barrier.
How do you celebrate Christmas? Have you ever celebrated away from home?
How cool that you got to spend Christmas in Italy with an Italian family!! I’m so jealous. I had no idea in Italy Christmas dinner is all seafood. Also I need to make some ribollita… because Michigan is COLD this year.
Ashley of Ashley Abroad recently posted..How to Plan an Inexpensive but Awesome Trip Abroad
Yes, it was a very unique and fun experience. I had so much fun.
Awesome Xmas! I hope there were leftovers to wash away the hangover. Maybe that’s just a N.A. thing. I spent Xmas at a potluck with 20 strangers. Everyone made way too much food, but this didn’t stop us from having a convoy to the bar to go dancing. Nothing like some electronic music to finish a Xmas in Vietnam.
There were A LOT of leftovers. But no hangover. Your Vietnamese Christmas sounds fun. Sometimes I think celebrating in random, non-traditional ways can be a lot of fun.
What a great experience! I must admit it’s hard to celebrate Christmas far away from home, friends and family, but a good company and nice food can surely beat the homesickness and sadness. Your Christmas table looks amazing! The food seems so yummy. I’m not surprised you ate until you felt sick – a real Christmas spirit!
Agness recently posted..Miso Hungry: How To Eat Well In Japan Without Going Broke
It was really nice! And you are right, company and food makes everything good
Love this.
Even though you weren’t at home, I’m so glad you had a great Christmas, especially as it was in one of your favourite countries.
Ceri recently posted..It’s Official! I’m Moving Away Again …
Thank you, Ceri! It was fabulous.