Every year, on a Saturday night near the beginning of October, the sky above the Han River near Yoeuido Park becomes awash with color. For almost two hours, bright explosions keep spectators oohing and aahing. This show, put on by Korea and three visiting nations, is the Seoul International Fireworks Festival. Sound like fun?
Think again.
It is well known that Korea loves festivals. I’m fairly certain that if you wanted to, you could visit a festival of some sort every weekend. Regardless of theme or quality, these festivals are always crowded. Like, really crowded.
Last year I watched the Seoul International Fireworks Festival from a few bridges down the river. There were a lot of people, but it was fun. This year I wanted to get closer to the action. Tara had gone to Yeouido Park the past two festivals and said, being closer to launch site and all, it was a lot of fun and provided a great view of the spectacular show.
Knowing it would get crowded early, we made a day of it. The show wasn’t scheduled to start until 7:30, but we arrived at Yeouido Han River Park around 3 pm. Armed with Subway sandwiches, a few bags of chips, some makgeolli, and a couple tall boys, we laid our blanket down on one of the few remaining patches of grass. Yes, four and a half hours before the show was set to begin and the place was already packed.
It was a beautiful fall afternoon – clear skies, cool temperatures, and the sun cast a beautiful, golden glow on the litany of white, high rise apartment buildings. Tara and I played a few games of Speed, and the time passed quickly.
By 6 pm the park was packed. Blankets, and those reflecting tin foil looking pads that every Korean family seems to own, covered every inch of grass. The line for dried squid twisted around couples laying intertwined on the grass. And the bathroom line? Oh, the bathroom line.
I got bored and decided to try one of these dried sea creatures.
Shortly before the show was to start, I decided to make my way to the toilet. We were sitting close to a line of trailer toilets (not to be confused with porta potties), and the lines had previously been really short- everyone else was lined up at the permanent restrooms further down the park. As I turned the corner, I was shocked. Rows and rows of women stood waiting, probably about 50 deep in each line. 45 minutes later I made it back to the blanket.
The show started. It was…nice? The fireworks, by the Italian team, were pretty. From what I could see. You see, as soon as the show started everyone stood up, put people on their shoulders, began rushing toward to river, whipped our their smart phone, and started snapping away. This would be no relaxing fireworks show.
As the first show ended Tara and I looked at each other. We both had the same idea. We didn’t want to risk drinking anymore of anything, lest we have to use the bathroom again. We didn’t want to stand on our tip toes trying to catch a glimpse of an occasional firework. Most of all, we didn’t want to be there when it all ended.
We packed up our things and walked toward the subway. The closer we got to street, the worse things got. The crowd thickened, to the point where everyone was shoulder to shoulder, swaying if one person moved. People behind us were pushing. I was starting to get scared, knowing if I put one foot down wrong, I would be trampled. Two shorter women behing Tara and I grabbed onto us, hoping it would help keep them up. Kids were screaming. I had Tara’s hand tightly in mine, knowing that if we got separated we would never find each other. This was like the crowd from every other festival I’d attended in Korea packed into one tiny area. Absolute pandemonium.
SO. MANY. PEOPLE.
After about five minutes of sheer terror, we made it out of the park and onto the sidewalk. The closest subway station was closed, and the police were of little help telling us how to get off the island, so we walked about thirty minutes across the bridge to a subway station a few stops away. And then headed straight to the bar.
If you like fireworks a lot (unlike myself) and can handle insane crowds (unlike myself), it might be worth it. But for me? A return trip to the fireworks festival would not be in order.
Still interested in going to the Seoul International Fireworks Festival? The show is usually held the first Saturday in October. The official viewing location is at the Yeouido Han River Park near the 63 Building, but I would suggest grabbing a spot on one of the nearby bridges. You won’t be as close to the action, but you’ll feel much more sane.
Having to deal with horrendous crowds is anything but fun. Could be a good idea to watch the firework display from the bridge next year.
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Sometimes I ask myself if events like these are worth it it. Like, I feel like I should go, but… It looks like the highlight was the dried sea thing – any idea what it actually was?
Alana – Paper Planes recently posted..>> Grand Palace Patterns >>
Things like this might be worth it in countries with organization, so not anywhere in Asia…
I’m going to assume it was a squid because of the legs and small body…but I have no idea. It was very chewy.