If I flew into Newark Thursday morning and out of LaGuardia on Monday afternoon flights were actually extremely reasonable. Plus, I could spend a couple days exploring New York. Sold.

I convinced Ashley and Jessica to join me, messaged my good friend Toby who lives in the city, and soon we had a whole 36 hours of fun planned.

We kind of forgot about the whole jet lag thing, but ended up fighting the urge to nap to take advantage of our time in the city. If you ever find yourself in a similar situation, here’s a handy (almost) hour by hour guide on how to beat jet lag in New York City.

Saturday 6:30 pm

Land at JFK and find the lines at border control aren’t too long. End up spend any time saved waiting for your bag. Jump in a cab (it’s a flat rate from JFK to Manhattan- $52 plus tolls and a 50 cent surcharge) and head into Manhattan.

8:30 pm

Arrive at Library Hotel and feel embarrassed about your current appearance. Check in. Find out they offer free DVD rental and grab Indiana Jones hoping to relive your recent travels to Petra.

9:30 pm

Find your room. All floors are based on the Dewey Decimal System. Collapse into the plush king size bed. Turn on Indiana Jones. Fall asleep within five minutes.

Sunday 4:45 am

Wake up to pee. Realize you aren’t tired. Then realize your friends are awake too. Work. Write. Edit photos. Brainstorm social media strategy.

7:00 am

Head down to breakfast as soon as it opens. Over indulge on pastries, plus a side of fruit in an attempt to look healthy. Make a latte using the espresso machine and head up to roof and listen to the city come to life.

Photo by Jessica @ Curiosity Travels

10:30 am

It’s time for a second breakfast. You’ve been up since before 5 o’clock. You deserve it. Walk to Ess-a-Bagel and find a line wrapped around the building. It’s a good thing this is your second breakfast.

11:45 am

You finally get to the front of the line. Order an everything bagel with lox cream cheese to go. And a black coffee. Devour the bagel as you rush to Grand Central to catch a train because your running late.

12:15 pm

Marvel at Grand Central Station. Yes, some people in the United States do take trains. Yes, train stations this majestic do exist. Once you’re done snapping photos run down to the 4 train.

1:15 pm

Arrive, only 15 minutes late, to meet your friend at Smorgasburg, a food market in Brooklyn. Battle the crowds to eat everything in sight. Cold spicy Asian noodles. Indian tacos. Banh cuon. Wish you were hungrier.

2:30 pm

Walk along the river admiring the view of Manhattan on a gloriously warm and sunny spring day. Buy a ticket and take the ferry to Williamsburg. Lean over the boat to take photos, carefully attempting not to trip your camera into the East River.

3:45 pm

Make your way to the Wythe Hotel and drink at their rooftop bar. Feeling tired? Drink through it. It might be $9 for an IPA but, trust me, it’s worth it for the view.

6:00 pm

Head back to Manhattan for the complimentary wine and cheese reception at Library Hotel. Load up on the brie and pour yourself a glass of red.

7:45 pm

Feeling tired? Power through it and head back to Brooklyn for dinner at Diner, a restaurant in an old dining car under the Williamsburg Bridge. Share dishes among friends so you can try almost everything on that night’s menu. Split a bottle of Pinot Noir. Laugh about past travels and teaching English in Korea.

9:30 pm

It’s dark now and the jet lag (and alcohol) is starting to catch up to you. Bid farewell to your friends and get back on the subway, restlessly count every stop until your back at Grand Central.

10:15 pm

Once again, you’re asleep as soon as your head hits the pillow.

Monday 7:30 am

Wake up at a more normal hour and feel slightly more well rested than the day before. Head downstairs for breakfast. Spend the rest of the morning before your flight catching up on work in the Reading Room. Dream about a longer stay in New York City.

Disclaimer: I received a complimentary stay from Library Hotel as part of their Writers-in-Residence program. For more information about their property, follow them on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter. As always, all opinions are my own.

How do you recover from jet lag? Have you ever taken advantage of a short stopover like this? And…don’t you just love New York?!

How to Recover From Jet Lag in New York City is a post from: Farsickness

Today, though, the governor of Indiana signed the Religious Freedom Restoration Act which will give legal protection to businesses who want to discriminate against LGBTQ people based on religious beliefs. I try to keep politics off this blog, but I am a person who believes strongly in freedom and equality for every person living in the United States of America and it would pain me to encourage people to visit a state whose government legally protects hate.

In spite of this I’ve decided to go ahead and publish this. While I would encourage people to speak with their money and not visit Indiana at this time, I am confident that equality will eventually win and maybe then you’ll also want to try to find some cool in Indy.

If two weeks ago someone had asked me my thoughts on Indianapolis, I would’ve drawn a huge blank. The Indy 500? Peyton Manning even though he doesn’t play for the Colts anymore? Corn?

So how exactly did I end up spending 36 hours in this kind of non-noteworthy Midwestern city?

I made a resolution to go somewhere every month this year. In January it was Chicago for a college friends reunion, in February I went to both Detroit and San Diego, and for April and on I have some pretty fun international adventures planned. That left me with nothing for March.

As the days were winding down, my friend Carlie and I found we both had the same day off work and decided to take spontaneous trip north to Indianapolis. I’d read a couple of travel blogs declaring the coolness of Indy and I just had to get up there and check it out for myself.

So we packed a tent to camp in the backyard of Indy Hostel, and spent Saturday night and Sunday exploring Indy’s different neighborhoods trying to find what could make this city cool.

Camping at a hostel in March is totally normal.

Broad Ripple: College kids and sports bars

Yes, I just used the phrase “college kids”. I’m old. Too old, in fact, to be hanging out in Broad Ripple. Before I got to Indy I heard Broad Ripple was artsy and filled with microbreweries. In reality it was filled with bros and tiny dresses from Forever 21. We walked around a while trying to find something for dinner and after walking past sports bar after sports bar filled with Butler students, ended up getting back in the car and heading to Mass Ave.

SoBro, or South Broad Ripple, may be where the cool is at in this area, though. There’s a charming farmers market called Locally Grown Gardens, along with some breweries and cute looking restaurants in this less developed area of town. Unfortunately, we didn’t discover this until Sunday afternoon.

Mass Ave: 20somethings and public art

Mass Ave is the diagonal main drag that runs through the heart of Indy’s arts district. After visiting on both Saturday night and Sunday afternoon I can say that this neighborhood has two very distinct personalities. At night it’s the play place for the city’s 20somethings. Chock full of bars, lounges, and restaurants, this is the Broad Ripple for the slightly older crowd.

We started with sausages and biers at Rathskeller, a German restaurant in the basement of the Athenæum, and the city’s oldest eatery still in operation, before sampling some of Indy’s finest microbrews at Mass Ave Pub. When we hit the road in search of tacos at midnight there were still plenty of people just starting their nights.

On Sunday afternoon we were dodging strollers instead of drunks as we hunted for some of Mass Ave’s famous public art. While I wasn’t a huge fan of most of the pieces (too polished, not enough grit), I kind of fell in love with Chatham Passage. This sunken concrete vault is covered with a steel grate carved into the shape of lace. Every so often it releases puffs of air that smells like roses. Yes, roses. The piece is located on a small walkway that was once home to Real Silk Hosiery Mill and is said to represent the underground coal vaults found in many basements at the time, as well as the luxury associated with silk.

Downtown: Chain restaurants and stadiums

Have you been to the downtown of any other small Midwestern cities? Well, then you’ve been to downtown Indy. We made our way here for a food truck festival and then promptly left. Monument Circle is worth a stop, but besides that your time is better spent in other neighborhoods with more local character.

Jamaican food truck food.

Fountain Square: Hipsters and mead (and street art)

There’s no doubt about it- Fountain Square is the cool part of Indianapolis. A historic neighborhood once home to German and Italian immigrants, the neighborhood is currently in the midst of a revitalization. And we all know what that means. Hipsters!

Now, I really like hipsters because we have similar interests: craft alcohol, creative food, and street art. Fountain Square had all three which meant I was immediately in love with the neighborhood.

The best discovery by far was New Day Craft Mead & Cider. Mead was a bit of a mystery to me. I knew that people drank it a long time ago, but that was about it. Turns out it is an alcoholic drink made from fermented honey and it’s really delicious. We tried their draft sampler, 3 ciders and 4 meads, and loved the different combinations like blueberry and strawberry rhubarb. I think I’m officially a mead convert now.

While I wouldn’t put Indy at the top of my list of favorite Midwestern cities, after visiting Fountain Square I can at least say I was successful on my mission and found a little bit of cool in this city.

Does Indy sound cool to you? What are cities have you found to be surprisingly cool? 

Trying to Find the Cool in Indianapolis is a post from: Farsickness

I’ve felt that pull to settle in Athens, Saigon, Taipei, and Amsterdam.

And now San Diego.

In some ways it was everything I’d hoped and thought California would be. I mean, like everyone actually surfs there. I thought that was just something us Midwesterners thought everyone in California did. And there Mexican restaurants everywhere and the highways are huge and crowded.

But in other ways it surprised me and charmed me. I spent most of the 4 days I was there thinking that if San Diego had some sort of public transportation, I would forego my travel plans and actually live in the US. (Maybe.)

A huge reason I feel so hard for this city was Jessica. She is probably the best tour guide you could ask for. It helps that we have similar interests, like drinking beer and stopping every two feet on a hike to take 70 photos, but she made sure we saw so much of San Diego, even if it meant she had to drive miles and miles every single day.

Why else did I fall in love with San Diego?

It’s the craft beer capital of the country

Okay, so it’s a self-proclaimed title, but it’s definitely more than deserved. San Diego is home to a whopping 96 craft breweries and we made it our mission to try beers from as many different breweries as possible while I was in town. (Yes, we were buzzed for the vast majority of these 4 days. Occupational hazard.)

We started off at Mother Earth Brew Co in Vista. Located in strip mall, it’s kind of the last location you’d expect to find a microbrewery, but when you step into their huge taproom you’re transported to another place. A place with beer and skateboards and dogs and an industrial feel. We tried a bunch of beers including their famous Cali’ Creamin’ Vanilla Cream Ale and the interesting PB&J Imperial Stout, but our favorite was the Kismet IPA.

The next day we stopped at Karl Strauss in La Jolla for lunch and some pre-hike IPAs we continued our sampling the next night at my new favorite place in the world, Barrel Republic. This craft beer bar has over 40 taps, but what makes it special is that you serve yourself. The taps line the walls of the bar and a magnetic bracelet keeps track of how many ounces you drink. It’s a great way to try a bunch of new beers as you can pour yourself a few ounces of each.

On Sunday, my last day in San Diego, we made our way to one of the pioneers of the American craft beer movement, Stone Brewing Co. Opened in 1996, it’s the largest brewery in Southern California, something that is immediately obvious when you pull into the parking lot of their Escondido-based brewery, bistro, and gardens. We sampled a bunch of IPAs, including their limited release Enjoy by 3.14.15, and while everything was good it lacked a bit of the homegrown “I threw this together with the last of my life savings” feel that I love about other craft breweries. I guess that’s what happens when you’re wildly successful.

We rounded out our weekend with a stop at Belching Beaver Brewery back in Vista. It’s location in an office park was a bit strange, but their beers (and outdoor space complete with fire puts) blew us away. We were originally drawn in by their Horchata Imperial Stout, but my favorite ended up being the Peanut Butter Milk Stout.

Even with all the drinking we did, I barely made a dent in the San Diego craft beer scene which gives me good reason to go back about 50 more times.

So much delicious Mexican food

I went to San Diego with one goal: to eat as many tacos as I could in 4 days. I did fairly well, even leaving the country one day for an attempt at a more authentic experience. But crossing the border isn’t even necessary, with plenty of Mexican-Americans living in the city, it’s possible to find great tacos, both traditional and the more California influenced, right in San Diego.

Right after picking me up from the airport, Jessica brought me to Las Cuatro Milpas, a tiny hole in the wall place in Barrio Logan. It was lunchtime and the line was long, stretching down the entire block, but with the smell of fresh tortillas and grilled meat wafting out the door I knew I couldn’t leave. We split a burrito, taco, and chorizo con huevos, a kind of sausage and egg stew and then I knew exactly why the line was so long.

The next day I tried something a little more California-esque at The Fish Shop in Encinitas. Jessica and I met my cousin and her family at this casual eatery before a night on the town. The fresh fish tacos were fabulous (and huge) and there’s a decent selection of local craft beers on tap, making this a nice stop for a low key meal.

The murals in Chicano Park

Right near Las Cuatro Milpas is Chicano Park, an almost 8 acre park located under the San Diego-Coronado Bridge. The park is home to the country’s largest collection of outdoor murals and was one of two places on my must see in San Diego list.

Barrio Logan, the home of Chicano Park, has long been the home of many Mexicans and Mexican-Americans and Chicano Park was the scene to many political movements as the people of this neighborhood struggled for equal rights and equal opportunities.

People began painting the murals, which have both political and religious significance to the Barrio Logan community and were an idea of art student Salvador Torres, in 1973 and since the 80s there has been continuous work to keep them restored. While I enjoyed wandering around the park and photographing the colorful murals, I can’t imagine how much they must mean to the Mexican and Mexican-American community, a group who has played such a role in this country but still struggled for the rights and recognition they deserve.

It was in the 60s in February

When I left Louisville it was 1 degree outside. 1 degree Fahrenheit. The ground was covered in snow and ice and the sun seemed like a bright yellow figment of my imagination. Seven hours later I landed in San Diego and it was 65 and sunny and I couldn’t get my coat off and my sunglasses on quickly enough.

Though the weather wasn’t perfect the entire weekend (it was kind of grey and blustery), I relished the fact that it was February and the heaviest outer layer I needed was a light sweater or denim jacket. Why the hell have I spent my life living in places with cold winters?

It’s, like, really freaking beautiful

California is one of those states that is very frequently talked about. The Golden Gate Bridge, Pacific Coast Highway, Napa Valley, Redwood forests, beaches, Hollywood, and so much more- California is quite possibly the most “famous” state, both in American and abroad. Until I visited San Diego, California was kind of like this American oasis. Could there possibly be this much beauty in one state?

Yeah, sure, like most American cities San Diego has its fair share of ugly suburban sprawl, but the city did a lot to show me that the California hype isn’t overblown. With everything from rolling hills and mountain ranges to deserts and sweeping sea vistas, San Diego has enough natural beauty to make you forget about all the ugly things us humans have built.

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve, a 2,000 coastal state park, is the perfect place to bask in the beauty of Southern California. There are over 8 miles of trails in the park, and even though we only hiked for a couple of hours we still managed to pass through both ravines and badlands.

Oh, and you can see the Pacific Ocean pretty much the entire time. Toward the end of our hike the clouds finally parted for a bit and the sun finally made an appearance. It was…beautiful.

The seals and sea lions in La Jolla

On a grey afternoon in La Jolla I became a lover of seals and sea lions. We first spotted them lined up on a beach in a cover. Covering almost all the sand, they would wiggle their way into the water, play with their babies, and get into barking fights with each other. I couldn’t look away. I was mesmerized by these creatures and their funny little walk.

Then we found a beach where you could walk down and basically mingle with the seals and sea lions. Besides when I got growled at by a huge, old guy, I was as mesmerized as all the five year old children. I mean, how many places can you get up and close and personal with wildlife?!

What cities have you fallen in love with?

6 Reasons I Fell in Love with San Diego is a post from: Farsickness

That’s why when I plan visits to Detroit now I try to eat at some of my old favorites and try a few of the newer places. This list, while obviously not comprehensive, is indicative of that and is a good starting point if you’re trying to figure out where to eat in Detroit.

Sides at Slows Bar B Q

Slows is probably the most famous restaurant in Detroit and was one of the first places to open in the Corktown neighbor during the city’s so called renaissance. And though it may be one of the older “new Detroit” restaurants, it doesn’t show any signs of slowing down. The place is still packed on most nights and new locations are popping up around Michigan. Slows does BBQ of all kinds and in many iterations, including by the pound, on sandwiches, and even in quesadillas. While the meat isn’t bad, the sides stole the show for me. Make sure you save room for plenty of mac-n-cheese, sweet potato mash, and pit smoked pork and beans. You won’t be disappointed.

Website | 2138 Michigan Avenue, Detroit, MI 48216 | 313-962-9828

Anything at Leo’s Coney Island

So much of the coverage of the Detroit coney scene focuses on the battle between Lafayette and American, and while Lafayette is good for a simple coney dog, my coney island allegiance is to Leo’s. A local chain started in 1972 by brothers Leo and Peter Stassinopoulos, Leo’s Coney Island serves up the traditional coney menu along with Greek favorites and all day breakfast. I usually order lemon rice soup and chili cheese fries, but they also have great gyros, omelets, coney dogs, and, of course, Greek salads. If you are in Metro Detroit and don’t hear, you’re stupid. If you do, send me pics so I can live vicariously though you.

Saganaki for breakfast, obviously.

Website | Multiple locations

Deviled Eggs at Public House

Ferndale, a hip suburb bordering Detroit, is chock full of cool bars and restaurants, including Public House. The decor is decidedly old-school and the menu is full of snacks, small plates, and sliders. While the sliders we had here weren’t bad, the real star was the chicken wing deviled eggs. How do you make a deviled egg better? Add buffalo sauce, that’s how. There’s also a menu of well-priced, creative cocktails and a fair amount of local beer. Public House is the perfect way to get a small taste of hipster Ferndale without spending a ton of cash.

Sunset in Ferndale after visiting PH and not taking any photos. Bad blogger.

Website | 241 W Nine Mile Road, Ferndale, MI 48220 | 248-850-7420

Sliders at Green Dot Stables

Sliders are having a moment right now in Metro Detroit and Green Dot Stables has the best. Located off the main drag in Corktown, you’re probably going to have to wait to try one of the 20 sliders on the menu. There was even a line when I arrived at 11 am on a Monday! But with options ranging from quinoa patties and marinated tempeh burgers to Philly cheesesteaks and fried bologna sandwiches, the wait is worth it. My favorite was the Korean- a beef patty with kimchi and peanut butter. Sounds strange, but like all their combinations, it totally works.

Website | 2200 W Lafayette Boulevard, Detroit, MI 48216 | 313-962-5588

Shawarma and lentil soup at Mr Kabob

Metro Detroit has some of the best Lebanese food in the country, no contest. But would be you believe me if I told you the best Lebanese food in the area was served out of a gas station? And not some hipster converted gas station, it’s an actual Sunoco station and it’s true. It’s mostly a takeout place, but there are a few tables for those wanting to enjoy their lunch in between aisles of chips and anti-freeze. You can’t really order wrong at Mr Kabob, but their lentil soup and shawarma are some of the best I’ve found in about 20 years of taste testing around the area.

The blurriest photo ever because I was too excited to dig in to hold the camera steady, apparently.

Website | 3372 Coolidge Highway, Berkley, MI 48072 | 248-545-4000

Tater tots at Mercury Burger Bar

I can’t actually vouch for the burgers here, but Mercury Burger Bar has some killer tater tots and a long list of local beer so it’s obviously a place you should try. If you’re around during the warmer months try to get a seat on their patio. With bright murals and some picnic tables, this is the place to be in Corktown for some summertime Detroit day drinking.

I dare you order these and not start singing tots tots tots tots to the tune of LMFAO’s Shots.

Website | 2163 Michigan Avenue, Detroit, MI 48216 | 313-964-5000

The Original Olga and snackers at Olga’s Kitchen

Yes, it’s a chain, but it’s also a local institution. Started in 1970 by Olga Loizon, her namesake restaurant serves up some tasty Mediterranean inspired dishes. There is a menu here, but the only things I’ve ever ordered are The Original Olga and snackers. The Original Olga is a gyro made with beef and lamb, tomatoes, onion, and Olgasauce, a type of yogurt sauce and snackers are pieces of seasoned fried pita bread served with swiss almond cheese for dipping. It’s like the fat kids delight and you won’t want to stop eating them. Ever.

Website | Multiple locations

Crack fries and beer at HopCat

HopCat is a small chain of craft beer bars with a few location in Michigan and Indianapolis. In December they opened their Detroit location and became the largest craft beer bar in the state with 130 beers on tap. The vast majority of the beers are from Michigan brewers, a lot of small breweries I’d never heard of, and I had a great night sampling a bunch of new to me IPAs and pale ales that I can’t find in Kentucky. Besides beer, HopCat has a food menu with burgers, sandwiches, and other bar type food. While our mains weren’t anything spectacular, their crack fries, beer battered fries with a black pepper seasoning, with cheese sauce lived up to their addicting name. Order a basket of these to go along with your beers and plan to take an Uber home. You’ll need it after a night here.

Website | 4265 Woodward Avenue, Detroit, MI 48201 | 313-769-8828

What would you want to eat in Detroit? Anything else you would add to this list?

Everything You Should Eat in Detroit is a post from: Farsickness

I might not live there anymore, but Michigan will always be home. I spent 24 years living in Metro Detroit and Ann Arbor and my Mitten pride runs deep. How is it then that it took me moving out of the state and traveling around the world to realize that I’d missed out on some of my state’s greatest treasures?

Because I’d never traveled to Northern Michigan.

While the vast majority of Michigan’s population is settled in the southwest corner of the state, the majority of its natural beauty is located in the north. When I realized last summer I would have 10 days between my flight landing in Detroit and my friend’s wedding in Ann Arbor, I decided it would be the perfect time to explore a little more of my home state. Luckily my friend Kelsey was also down to do a little in-state travel and the two of us took off on a whirlwind Labor Day weekend tour of Northern Michigan.

While we didn’t have the time to see everything we originally wanted, we still managed to check out the following places.

Traverse City

Traverse City blew my mind. Traverse City is hip in a way I wasn’t sure possible of a town this far north in Michigan. In addition to its beautiful location on Grand Traverse Bay, the city exudes cool. Craft breweries, exciting eateries, independent shops, art galleries, and coffee houses line the downtown streets and there were plenty of people out and about taking advantage of this. I was supremely sad we’d only given ourselves one night here. I could’ve stayed the entire weekend. 

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

The main purpose of staying in Traverse City was so we could pay a visit to nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, once voted the most beautiful place in America. The park stretches for 35 miles along Lake Michigan’s coastline and is home to not only some impressive sand dunes, but also dense forests and beautiful beaches.

Because the skies looked like they could open up at any moment, we decided to forego climbing the dunes and instead embarked on the 7 mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. The Visitor Center has free maps that outline the different stops and includes information about the area, wildlife in the park, history, and what you’re seeing when you stop at the scenic overlooks.

If you’re short on time skip right to stops number 9 and 10 for the Lake Michigan Overlook. Follow the path from the parking lot and soon you’ll be standing on one of the highest dunes looking right down onto the lake. While the weather wasn’t as beautiful as I’d hoped, we managed to get a few minutes of clear-ish skie before the thick fog and rain rolled in.

The Upper Peninsula

I was going on and on once, talking to a non-Michigan friend about the U.P. this and the U.P. that before she finally interrupted and asked, “What the HELL is the U.P.?” Well, for all you non-Michiganders, the U.P. is Michigan’s upper peninsula, that weird little bit at the top that hangs off the edge of Wisconsin.

With long, tough winters, the Upper Peninsula is home to only 3% of Michigan’s population, but immense natural beauty. As soon as we crossed the bridge the sun came out, glistening off Lake Michigan to our left, and we were surrounded by evergreen trees. This is exactly why people travel to the UP. And hunting and snowmobiling and ice fishing.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

We had come to the U.P. for one reason, to visit Picture Rocks National Lakeshore, a stretch of Lake Superior’s coast between Munising and Grand Marais. The most famous area of the lakeshore, and the reason behind its name, is the 15 miles of colorful sandstone cliffs northeast of Munising. I’d fallen in love with pictures of clear, turquoise water reminiscent of the Caribbean crashing into tall, colorful rock formations.

Of, course, the day we showed up for our boat tour it was cold, grey, and raining. Undeterred, we boarded the boat for our three hour tour of the 500 million year old cliffs. While the water wasn’t nearly the color I’d imagined, the cliffs were. Caused by high levels of minerals in the rocks, the evaporating ground water causes the colorful streaks.

It’s also possible to kayak along the cliffs and hike, something which I’d love to do in the warmer and sunnier summer months.

Mackinaw City

Mackinaw City is tourist central. The kitschy shops and streets of chain hotels and ferry services make it obvious that this city exists pretty much solely for those making trips to Mackinac Island. And that’s fine, it was just kind of a shock after a couple of days in the very secluded U.P..

The highlight of Mackinaw City for me was Mackinac Brewhouse, a craft beer store in the middle of the city. I made my own six pack of local IPAs and we enjoyed some of their offerings on draft. It’s located in a totally touristy shopping center, but with over 10,000 bottles the selection of beer can’t be beat.

Mackinac Island

I don’t know how I lived in Michigan for almost 25 years without making it to what is arguably the state’s most popular tourist attraction, but I did. And I was seriously missing out. This summer colony and resort island is known for its fudge, architecture, and lack of cars, but it’s much more than a playground for the wealthy middle aged.

Kelsey and I took one of the first ferries over in the morning and arrived to find the island almost empty as most of the Labor Day vacationers had already left and the day trippers hadn’t yet arrived. We wandered around a bit as the morning fog burned off and then decided to venture to higher elevation. Almost 80 percent of this 3.8 square mile island is a protected state park and there are plenty of walking of cycling trails throughout.

We followed the sign postings to Arch Rock and then slowly wandered around, being careful to avoid the horse drawn carriages full of tourists that seem to be around every corner, before returning to the main town for some of the island’s famous fudge.

After a ferry ride back to the mainland we hopped in the car and began the four hour drive back down to Ann Arbor, happy to have seen just a little more of the state we both call home.

Have you ever realized you missed out by not exploring close to home?

Returning Home and Discovering Pure Michigan is a post from: Farsickness

A few days after I posted that, I realized something I thought would never be true.

I actually like Louisville.

I had been way too quick to judge this little city stuck between the north and the south. I immediately wrote it off as too small and too backward. I figured since it is Kentucky it would be too religious and too conservative. I thought people would close minded and unwelcoming. On the whole, I couldn’t have been further from the truth and I’ve since discovered a few great things about this city that are making me want to stay.

1. There’s a huge craft beer and food scene

There’s only two things I really need in life to be happy- good food and good beer. Luckily, Louisville has an abundance of both! The city was recently named as one of the most underrated food cities in the US by Thrillist and has received countless other accolades over the years. It’s definitely a fun place to eat. On Friday I attended the opening night of Roux, a New Orleans inspired restaurant, and had great gumbo and a fabulous cocktail.

My favorite Louisville lunch spot.

Oh, and the beer? While a lot of the breweries in Kentucky aren’t my favorite, there is a passion for craft beer here. Holy Grale has a rotating theme of craft beers and other craft beer bars regularly host tap takeovers. Last week I attended a craft beer night at the Kentucky Science Center (more about that soon!) and next week there’s a huge craft beer festival. I’m excited to discover more about brewing in this region.

2. I can easily explore more of the US

Okay, the airport here is absolute shit, but driving wise, Louisville is centrally located to a lot of cities- less than 3 hours to Nashville, 4.5 to St. Louis, and 7 or so to Atlanta. I’m already dreaming up road trips around the South, an area of the country I haven’t had to chance to visit much.

Plus, there’s a lot of natural beauty in the area. I’m going to hiking at Red River Gorge in a couple of weeks in hopes of catching some fall colors (unlike my fall color Seoraksan hike a couple of years ago) and I hope to make it out to Cumberland Falls sometime soon.

3. It’s a nice size…and cheap

As much as I love London, since leaving I’ve realized that being there made me feel anxious and exhausted a lot of the time. Louisville is much, much smaller. I used to think of this as a negative, but it turns out there’s still a lot of things to do. Yes, there’s a serious lack of public transportation and I’ve had to learn to drive again, but it turns out even that’s not as bad as I thought.

Louisville is also cheap. Like, really, really cheap. I was taking a look at apartment ads on Craigslist and you can rent a one bedroom place for well under $1,000 a month. Like $600 a month in some places. For a one bedroom apartment in a good location. $600. I still can’t believe it. Not having to pay half my wage toward rent means I could spend it on things I like more. Like food, beer, and travel.

4. I’m close to family and friends

I think I underestimated how much I missed my family and friends in the US. Even just the simple things. It’s nice to be able to complain about Brady Hoke with my dad or make fun of people on House Hunters with my mom or go to Target with my sister. This weekend I’m driving up to Ann Arbor for a birthday celebration and an epic day of tailgating.

My lovely parents!

My sister will probably hate me for posting this.

I’m within driving distance of friends in Chicago and family in North Carolina, and am already trying to plan long weekends in Minneapolis, San Francisco, and New York to see others. Oh, and next month I get to celebrate Thanksgiving with my family for the first time since 2008! These were things that were impossible abroad, and would be nearly impossible in American cities that are further away or more expensive.

(Yes, there are two sides to this coin. I do miss my UK friends a whole bunch!)

5. There’s a plethora of writing and work opportunities

Since I’ve been back I’ve gotten a huge amount of new freelance work. People want people who can write about Louisville. There are a million other people trying to write about cities like London and New York. The competition in Louisville is a lot less stiff. Maybe that seems like settling for some, but if I can do what I love without having to have tons of connections (which I don’t) then I am happy.

I was also offered an internship doing social media for what seems like a totally awesome local digital marketing agency and I’m so excited for this opportunity to learn more about something I love in a professional environment. This is worth sticking around for alone!

I’ve second guessed a lot of decisions I’ve made in my life, but deciding to stay in Louisville? I’ve never felt more sure of anything.

Has a place ever surprised you? Are you coming to Louisville in the future (you should)? Let’s grab a beer!

Why I’m Staying in Louisville is a post from: Farsickness

Snapshot Sunday: Bar Harbor, Maine is a post from: Farsickness

The AEGON Center

Snapshot Sunday: Louisville, Kentucky is a post from: Farsickness

I don’t want to go to every little city in the world.

And I’m sure a lot of people would disagree with my overreaching title.

But I don’t care. As far as the official opinion of this blog goes, Ann Arbor is the greatest little city in the world.

I grew up about 30 miles from Ann Arbor and when it came time to deciding where to study post-high school, the decision was easy. In the fall of 2004 I moved to Ann Arbor and spent the next 4.5 years exploring Ann Arbor as a student at the University of Michigan.

Flash forward to December 2012. It had been two years since I’d last stepped foot in Ann Arbor. Two years since I’d been in my home state at all. With a visit to Michigan on the itinerary for my two weeks at home I knew I’d have to somehow squeeze in a trip to A Squared.

Our trip got cut a little short because of a forecasted blizzard in Ohio (worst state ever) but I was still able to convince my sister Caitlyn to drive me to Ann Arbor (I’m no longer allowed to drive any of my family’s cars- for good reason) and spend the day running around to my favorite places with my friends. She’s a nice sister.

As soon as we pulled off M-14 onto Main Street I transformed into the most annoying person the planet, pointing out every little thing that had changed and every little thing that had stayed the same. Luckily for Caitlyn, we soon arrived at our first destination, Mighty Good Coffee. This place is relatively new and was suggested by my friend Danielle, an Ann Arbor native (and former teacher in Korea). After a year of really bad Americanos in Seoul, it was nice to step into a place that takes coffee seriously. Mighty Good Coffee roasts their own beans and they make their own syrups in house. I never order flavored lattes because they are always to sweet for me but I decided to try the brown sugar sea salt latte. And I’m glad I did. It was perfectly creamy, not to sweet, and you could still taste the coffee.

Brown sugar sea salt lattee at Mighty Good Coffee

After a couple hours of catching up it was unfortunately time to say goodbye. Danielle and her fiance Dan live in Australia and it gets harder and harder to say goodbye to good friends you don’t know when you’ll see again.

With some time to kill before meeting another friend, I forced my sister to walk around campus with me in nearly freezing temperatures. Our original plan was to get burritos at one of my favorite places, BTB, but it was closed, along with many other places, because of winter vacation.

Ulrich’s Book Store

A little disappointed, we walked across the Diag where I stopped every ten feet to take a photo and talk about stupid things I’d done in college. More than that though, I admired the beauty of campus that I’d often overlooked when I was rushing to class or coming home from the bar. The sun was almost set, the ground was lightly covered with snow, and there weren’t many people around. It was another point for greatest little city.

Grad Library and the Diag

For the final reunion of the night, Caitlyn and I met my friend Jen and her fiance Andrew (all my friends are engaged it seems) at one of my favorite bars, Ashley’s. Ashley’s has over 40 beers on tap and has been rated one of the top 100 beer bars in the country. I had lunch there on the my 21st birthday and it’s been a mainstay ever since.

For a couple hours we sipped on double IPAs and chatted about wedding plans, travel plans, life after college, and life in college. I hadn’t seen Jen or Andrew in over two years but it felt like no time had passed. Though, it did make me feel a tad guilty for being disconnected to life back in the States.

Eventually it was time to say goodbye.

To old friends.

To cheap, delicious beer.

To the greatest little city in the world.

As my sister drove north on US-23 I sat in the passenger seat and made a promise that it wouldn’t be two years before I saw Ann Arbor or my friends again.

What’s your favorite little city? Have you ever been to Ann Arbor?

Ann Arbor: The Greatest Little City in the World is a post from: Farsickness

I’ve had Hillbilly Tea on my to-eat list for a while. Their farm to table Appalachian inspired menu always had me drooling in front of my laptop and their creative tea blends had me looking at my cup of $3-for-500-bags green tea with disdain. I knew that this year, during this visit, I was putting Hillbilly Tea in the number one spot on my list of places I had to eat. A few weeks before making my way back to the States I was torturing myself by browsing their menu online when I saw something about a winter tea dinner. This five course meal with tea pairings would preview their new winter menu. I immediately clicked over to my e-mail for reservations.

A few weeks later, appropriately scheduled on the night of the winter solstice, my family and I headed over to Hillbilly Tea’s rustic location in downtown Louisville. The dinner was a small, intimate affair with less than ten tables of appreciative foodies. Held upstairs, the dimly lit room, complete with the largest Christmas tree you’ve ever seen, was warm and cozy. An atmosphere to perfectly complement the theme of the dinner.

After a brief introduction to the meal and the restaurant, the first course was served. A teacup of braised pork with cream of wheat and cottage cheese dumplings in a tea broth was set in front of each diner. While the pork and dumplings were both seemingly perfect, the highlight of this course for me was the broth. Smoky, thick, and cloudy, it reminded me of my favorite ramen in Tokyo. While I could’ve happily drank the broth and had my thirst quenched, there was a special drink that accompanied this course- a boiler maker (a beer and a shot of whisky) done tea style. A small glass of Upland Brewery’s Bad Elmer’s Porter sat beside a shot glass of twig hooch, a homemade tea whisky, on a small slice of tree.

A blurry photo of some damn good braised pork.

The boiler maker. Bonus points for presentation.

The second course began with what could possibly be the best nonalcoholic drink I’ve ever tasted. When I read the menu and saw a “Christmas tea soda” listed, I almost immediately wrote it off as something I wouldn’t like. But the combination of frankincense, myrrh, and spices was liquid perfection. It wasn’t too sweet. There wasn’t too much carbonation. It was Christmas in a mason jar.

The food that followed was just as tasty. In another tea cup was a stew made from pork and beans. Beans are in my list of the top 5 things I miss about food while living in Korea, and this creamy, smoky stew was a pretty awesome reintroduction to legumes after a year away.

It was at this point that I became so heavily invested in eating and enjoying that I stopped writing detailed notes. A celery salad followed, and as someone who could leave salads and never look back, my plate was cleared. Take that for what you will.

The salad in question.

My sister and I enjoying our meal.

The main course consisted of a braised lamb shank over succotash and charred broccoli. I love lamb, but in my opinion, if it’s not cooked right it can quickly go from great to funky. This lamb, though, fell off the bone with the tiniest flick of the fork and was far from funky tasting.

The final course was a chocolate mousse with forest berries and tea cookie crumbles. The accompanying tea blend, called Horny Goat, had a minty taste that was great for cutting down some of the sweetness of the mousse.

As the meal was over I found myself in my food happy place. I had high expectations for Hillbilly Tea. And those expectations were met and more. It was a meal that left no room for complaints. Delicious, well executed comfort food, a relaxed atmosphere, and some fantastic company. Though the last part was not supplied by Hillbilly Tea.

2/3 of the great company.

And for all my friends in Asia, Hillbilly Tea is opening a location in Shanghai. Yes, China. I know I’ll be adding it to my itinerary!

Visitor Information: Hillbilly Tea is located on 120 South 1st Street in Louisville. They are closed on Monday. For more information visit their website.

Note: I was not paid or asked the write this review. I just really loved this meal, the concept, and the restaurant this much that I felt the need to write 800 words about how fabulous it was. Also, I saw something about a Valentine’s Tea Dinner on their website so if you’re in the Louisville area (or feel like traveling for some awesome food) you could possible attend a dinner as wonderful as this one. Seriously. Go.

What dish sounds the best to you? 

Celebrating Winter in Louisville With Hillbilly Tea is a post from: Farsickness