Why I Regret Riding an Elephant
When I was in Bali last year I rode an elephant.
This is something that I now deeply regret.
While planning our trip to Bali, my friend proposed a visit to an elephant park outside Ubud. I thought that riding an elephant would an incredible experience. I did some research on the park and it mentioned that the animals had been rescued from areas in Sumatra where logging was destroying the natural habitats of the animals and where many elephants were forced to work in harsh conditions. In my naive state, I thought they must have it much better toting around tourists all day in Bali. Without a second thought, we booked an all day tour to experience the elephants.
We were picked up from our guest house in the morning and after an almost hour drive along winding roads and through terraced rice fields, we arrived at the park. Newly built lodges and restaurants made to look like something you’d see on a safari, a museum, a gift shop, and an endless loop of commercials featuring the birth of some baby elephants at the park and advertising special events reminded me more of a theme park than an animal conservatory.
Once outside, I immediately caught a glimpse of a baby elephant standing inside a pen. As someone who is a self professed animal hater and generally calm person, I was surprised at my intial reaction of “OH MY GOD THAT’S THE CUTEST THING I’VE EVER SEEN!” But I went with it and hurried over toward to the big, precocious baby. There was a line up to take photos next to the elephant and as my turn grew nearer, I was a little nervous. I’m terrified of something as tiny as a cat and even though this thing was a baby, it was a heck of a lot bigger than any cat. My curiosity trumping fear, I handed my camera to the mahout and stood next to adorable animal it while he flapped his trunk around in front of me. I’d call this love at first sight.
We wandered around a little more and saw more babies! They were practicing for a show. You know, one of those shows where elephants do amazing tricks and the tourists watch on slack jawed. Once the practice was over the elephants were allowed to play. With each chomp on a piece of food, spray of water, and playful flick of the trunk, I became more enamored with these gentle giants.
I was plotting ways to bring one of the babies home with me (would’ve fit perfectly in my Korean studio apartment), when it was our turn to try riding an elephant around the park. My friend and I climbed onto a large chair like saddle that was strapped around the elephant’s gigantic belly and the mahout guided our elephant into the line of elephants already carrying their squealing tourists.
An elephant’s gait is not smooth and the entire 15 minute ride felt like we were being slowly shaken up. The ride was uncomfortable, to say the least, and I was left wondering if there was any reason to ride an elephant other than just to say you had. Which really isn’t a good reason to do much of anything.
We dismounted our elephant and walked over to the nearby pavilion where we enjoyed an all you can eat buffet, included in the ticket price. While we ate away and relaxed, our elephant returned to the queue of people to pick up another heavy load.
Even after I returned to Korea, I couldn’t stop thinking about these striking creatures. As I read more and more about them, I learned about their intelligence, kindness, and sense of community. My love affair had turned into an almost obsession.
I then stumbled onto a lot of information about the dark side of elephant tourism. Elephants, even those who were rescued, are wild animals which means they had to be extensively trained to play the the roles of docile ride givers and perfect performers. I don’t know about the training methods used at the park I visited, but the training is often peppered with horrific abuse. While elephants are able to carry a significant amount of weight, the total load of the saddle, mahout, and two or more passengers can easily overburden the animal. The weight, combined with the hours they are forced to cart people around, is often bordering on overwork and is detrimental to the elephant’s physical and mental well being.
While I now regret riding an elephant, I am grateful that I visited the park. It opened my eyes to these beautiful and awe inspiring creatures, and also to the horrifying reality of the ever so popular elephant tourism business in Southeast Asia. I now look forward to visiting other parks, such as Elephant Nature Park in Thailand, that focus less on entertainment and more on true elephant rescue and rehabilitation.
Have you ever done anything you regret while traveling? What do you think about animal tourism? Leave your thoughts in the comments.
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I remember thinking this would be something I would want to do if I ever made it to Southeast Asia but then I read a similar article explaining that no place with elephant rides is operating in a humane fashion. I think I would try and visit an elephant preserve where the elephants are allowed to do as they please, all day long.
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That’s what I’d like to do the next time I’m down there. There’s one near Chiang Mai that is known to be completely against elephant riding and although it’s pricey I will definitely be shelling out to spend time up close (but not on) with some elephants.
When I went to Madrid a few years ago, I watched a bull fight. I knew nothing about bull fighting so I was really surprised when I found out (by watching) that the bull dies in the end (that’s how they know the round is over and another matador comes out). I wouldn’t call myself an animal rights activist, but I couldn’t stand to watch anymore. I guess it’s rude to leave midway though the show, because some Spaniard starting yelling at us as we left and the only word we understood was ‘tourist’.
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Yeah, I definitely don’t consider myself an animal rights activist by any stretch of the imagination, but there are some things that are just too painful or displeasing to watch. And it sounds like this bull fight was definitely on that side of things
We are headed to SEA in the summer and while checking out the elephants has always been on my must-see list, I have read a lot about the abuse they can endure. There are some good places though that are supposedly taking care of the elephants the right way. I would say you are probably doing more good by promoting the inhumane way they can be cared for then by any bad that came out of you actually going to the park.
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Thanks for the comment! I have read about some of these places and hope to check them out when I’m down there. I’d love to support the people doing it the right way. And spend more time up close with elephants.
Wow I visited an elephant refuge in Laos to ride an Elephant – the creatures are amazing but you have made me think twice about riding them.
The experience made me look at it in a completely different light as well.
We’re in the same boat. We rode an elephant once and never will again. I was never really keen on it but riding them was (oddly) bundled into the ticket price of a hiking trip we were doing. It wasn’t awful but it wasn’t enjoyable.
I’m happy to know they’re somewhere safe doing whatever they want but after seeing places that offer rides multiple times I find the whole idea of riding them bizarre.
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I feel the same. I just kind of went along with it because it sounded neat, but I didn’t like how I felt after. There are other ways to rescue elephants other than forcing them to perform. Thanks for the comment. I’m glad others agree!
Just on MY experience:
I think there ARE good places that I think are legitimately concerned with their elephants. Dan and I rode an elephant when in Southern Thailand. We had a really good experience actually and I know we were lucky after looking at other experiences that make you pay a LOT of money in the northern Thailand area. It seems to be like the Cambodian orphanages, that they can charge anything they want because its the “new thing” for flashpackers. We got to know the elephant we were riding and the people that were taking care of him- the women, who was about 50 years old, talked about the elephant like a child almost, his personality, what he liked to do, what he liked to eat, etc. We saw their other elephants grazing in a nearby field, the babies playing, and she explained that they each only took people through the jungle once a week, and the rest they get to relax. The man who brought us on our walk was her son (it was a fairly small family business it seemed) through the jungle which was supposedly older than the Amazon, and he brought a dull blade to cut branches that he found on the path, but I was scared he would use it on the elephants. But he just talked to the elephant in Thai to direct it, and the elephant would usually respond with a little noise!
I mean, this all could be a lie that they tell/show people and I just believed it because the elephants DID seem happy- especially on their days off! I haven’t done it since, I am terrified that they do mistreat the elephants after all the reading I’ve done. Horses are also ridden by humans though and they used to be wild.
I do agree that elephant rescue centers that charge high prices have become pretty trendy among travelers, whether that is good or bad, I don’t know. It does sound like you had a good experience and the fact that they work only once a week makes it a lot better than what I experienced. The worst part about the riding is supposedly when they wear that seat. From what I’ve heard if you want to ride, it’s better bareback as it is less weight and pressure for the animal.
I don’t judge what other people do on vacation, though
And I would never tell someone what not to do, I just know that I won’t do it again 
Really helpful reading your review, I am going to Indonesia soon and dont intend on visiting the park. Do you know of anywhere that I can visit that is kind to elephants? I love the look of the Elephant Nature Park in Thailand, so have bookmarked that for when I eventually visit Thailand.
I’m not sure of any places in Indonesia. Check out the Save Elephant Foundation (http://www.saveelephant.org/), though, in Thailand and Cambodia. They run Elephant Nature Park and may have some resources about Indonesia. I’m glad you’re being elephant aware in your travels!
Good for you, girl. I can’t even bear to ride a horse, let alone an elephant. That baby elephant is soooooooooooo cute! <3
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Yay! I love other people who agree!