A Day at the Races

I’ve found the secret to making easy money for traveling.

Gambling. On horse racing in Seoul, to be exact.

Okay, maybe I actually found a quick way to become a degenerate gambler (especially for someone with an addictive personality and insatiable desire to win things, like myself), but I did manage to win 120,000 won (about $100) this weekend during my first visit to Seoul Racecourse. All of which was quickly dumped into my travel savings tin when I got home and got me thinking about my next trip to the track. And why I hadn’t gone sooner.

I hadn’t even known their was horse racing in Seoul until my friend planned an outing there for his birthday. I made the trek down to Seoul Racecourse on a sunny and warm Saturday morning with 50,000 won in my pocket and a desire to win. Seoul Racecourse is a bit of a topsy turvy place by Korean standards. Drinking, which is considered to be a legitimate hobby here in Korea (I learned this during one of the two Korean classes I attended), is not allowed at the track, and gambling which is mostly illegal for Koreans, is allowed and encouraged. Fear not, though, there are some entrepreneurial Korean women selling beers near the entrance should you feel the need for a cold one between races.

They track makes it very easy for foreigners to take part in the fun. Right inside the building called Luckyville (next to Happyville, maybe where you go after you get lucky?) there is a foreigner information booth that offers race information in English, as well as brochures on how to fill in the betting form, which is all in Korean.

The day started off slowly for me. The first race I picked a horse that finished near the back of the pack. Then, for the second race, I decided to bet on a quinella place. You pick two horses to finish in the top three, in any order. I felt confident, placed my bet, and walked outside to check the updated odds and wait for the race to begin. What do I see as soon as I take a seat? The jockey dismounting horse number 13 (one of my picks) as it withdrew from the race. Over before it even began.

Feeling somewhat discouraged, I decided to change up  my strategy. No longer was I going to look at past wins, fastest times, or any sort of race related statistic. I was going to scout out the horses with the longest legs. As a tall person who can’t run very fast I should have thought this to be somewhat illogical, but I went with it, and horses 8 and 9 finished second and third that race. I was now 55,000 won richer.

The next few races were fairly uneventful. As in, my horses didn’t win squat. During the ninth race I decided to get closer to the track to take some photos of the horses running. As the horses rounded the final turn and started down the homestretch I got into position, turned my head to the left to see how far away the pack was, and immediately saw a big, black horse tumble to the ground. An injured horse during a race usually means one thing. Moments after the race ended, a green tent appeared around the horse.

But I couldn’t let the sadness get in the way. It was time for the day’s penultimate race. The Tokyo Cup. After a string on unsuccessful bets this was my last chance to win some money. I’d decided on a quinella place and needed to choose my two winners. I had a few favorites based on the race book, but I needed to see them before I made up my mind. As soon as we reached the pen, I had the winner picked. Number 13 was a beautiful black horse with long legs and a good record. I spent a while debating between horse number 11 who sported a fabulous win percentage, and number 12, a chestnut with a shiny coat and some spunk. I went with my gut and filled in the bubble for 12.

The race started and neither of my picks were in the top five after the first few hundred meters. As they rounded the final turn, number 13 started pulling up toward the leaders, but 12 was still in the middle. They barreled down the homestretch and I was starting to think it was impossible for me to win, when number 12 began to make his way up the outside. They sprinted past us, with the finish line quickly approaching, and 12 and 13 were holding strong in the lead as I jumped up and down screaming. The results posted a few minutes later. I’d just won another 71,000 won.

After counting my cash I can’t help but think that Seoul Racecourse is an exciting, and different, way to spend an afternoon.

Or day.

Or possibly every weekend for the next few months.

How to get there: Take Line 4 to Seoul Racecourse Park. Use Exit 1 or 2. 

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