The sun was shining and flowers were in bloom. There were beautiful, pastel colored buildings next to ones that had fallen into disrepair, a dichotomy that always interested me. Small alleys and church domes reminded me of Spain and Italy.

I’m sure Krakow is always beautiful, but spring in Krakow was something else. The perfect weather for wandering and soaking up the atmosphere of the city.

First I walked to the main square, Rynek Glowny. It is the largest medieval town square in Europe and its enormity and beauty had me grinning in awe as I first stepped in.

I then walked around the Old Town, most of the time with my head cocked back looking up at the buildings. Unlike many cities in Poland, Krakow was not destroyed during World War II and the Old Town (Stare Miasto in Polish) is filled with a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture.

I then made my way to Wawel Hill, a complex consisting of many fortifications, the Royal Castle, and Wawel Cathedral, for a view out over the Vistula river.

And then I’d just walk. Sometimes without a map, sometimes with. Up and down streets. Into shops and restaurants. I’d walk until I made my way back to Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter.

Which is your favorite photo of Krakow? 

Krakow in Spring: A Photo Essay is a post from: Farsickness

You see, I’ve forever had a strange fascination with the history of the Holocaust. As a child I read every book I could get my hands on that related to the event, did projects about Anne Frank at school, and planned trips to visit sites in countries I’d barely heard of. It might seem strange that a 10 year old would be so interested in an event where millions of people were killed, but I was.

So I’d always wanted to visit Auschwitz, the place that represents the horrors of the Holocaust like no other. I wanted to visit Auschwitz to see, to feel, to learn. I wanted to pay my respects to those whose lives were ended or forever changed.

I’ve visited other so called “dark history” sites before- the Killing Fields in Cambodia, Seodaemun Prison in Seoul, and Dachau Work Camp outside Munich. The visits had been somber. I had held back tears. I wandered the grounds alone or with friends. I could learn and pay my respects to those who had suffered in the way that I chose.

Visiting Auschwitz couldn’t have been more different.

I arrived at Auschwitz in the morning to find crowds of people waiting to be sorted into groups outside the entrance. From August to October it is required that visitors join a guided tour if they arrive at Auschwitz I between 10 am and 3 pm. While I’m not a fan of guided tours, had I hoped this would provide some added insight to the day.

After being assigned a group, I was handed a headset and we were on our way. Our guide, who seemed extremely uninterested in the whole thing, led us into the camp. Maybe because I’ve read so much about the event or maybe because the US teaches the Holocaust every year as part of its history curriculum, but I found most of what the guide said throughout the day to be simple facts that I already knew. Nothing further.

We entered the first block, which had been turned into a sort of museum, and were quickly ushered through will the guide gave us a quick rundown of the facts. We continued to walk through these blocks, some filled with the luggage of people brought to Auschwitz from all over Europe and other with the eyeglasses of those who never left, without any time to stop, look, or thing. One tour group in front of another, weaving our way through the blocks.

I listened and I looked and I felt nothing.

The tour ended. I ate some zurek in a cafeteria next to the car park. I thought about what I just saw. Th place I’d just been. The things that had happened there.

I felt disappointed, a strange way to feel after a visit to a place like this. It wasn’t disappointment, though, in what I saw. It was disappointment in the way it was handled. I was disappointed that I hadn’t had time to read the placards and look at the pictures and absorb. I was disappointed that I didn’t have time to feel the depth of what had occurred here. I was disappointed that it felt like a well choreographed dance rather than a visit to site where some of the most horrific acts ever committed had taken place. I was disappointed in the other visitors who were taking selfies or constantly snapping photos.

The visit to Birkenau was better, in the way a visit to a concentration camp could be better. You could freely walk around the grounds. The blocks hadn’t been converted into mini-museums. It was easier to get an idea how horrible things had been, how something like this should not happen again.

Still, though, there was a sense of commercialization. Of a sort of theme park effect. Am I wrong to expect that others treat these type of places with a sense of respect and dignity? Why would you even want a photo of yourself smiling in front of a train that carried Jews from Hungary to their death in Poland?

While Auschwitz may not have been what I expected, I do still think it is a necessary trip.

Genocide was not ended in 1945. Since then there have been genocides in Cambodia, Bosnia, Rwanda, and Darfur, to name a few.

We need these reminders. We need to visit sites that make us uncomfortable. We need to stop these things from happening.

The Horrors of Visiting Auschwitz is a post from: Farsickness

What did I discover? That Polish food is simple, but full of flavor. It is hearty. It is delicious. Potatoes and cabbage, two of my favorite foods, feature heavily, as does sausage. There are a lot of similarities with other eastern and central European countries, but all with their own Polish flair.

This guide, while far for comprehensive, can help you eat your way through Poland.

Popular Polish Dishes

Pierogi

Probably the most famous of all Polish dishes, pierogi are a type of dumpling that can be either savory or sweet. Potato, sauerkraut, cheese, meat, and fruit are the most common fillings, but many eateries offer different and more creative options including things like goat cheese. I grew up eating frozen pierogi as an afternoon snack and was excited to be able to try the real thing in Poland. And try them I did. While there weren’t any variation that I didn’t like, my favorite were the pierogi ruskie, filled with potato and cottage cheese, and topped with a large dollop of sour cream.

Bigos

Bigos is a meat and cabbage stew that is popular in many eastern European countries. Also known as hunter’s stew, bigos is made of cabbage, sauerkraut, mushrooms, tomatoes, and some kind of meat, the most common being kielbasa. It is most often served with a side of rye bread or mashed potato. This is a hearty, filling dish that would be perfect on a cold night.

Golabki

Known in English as stuffed cabbage, golabki are rolls made by wrapping slightly boiled cabbage around ground beef or pork, onions, and rice and then baking it all in a tomato sauce. Golabki are an important dish in Poland, often served around Christmastime and at weddings, and were rumored to have been served to the Polish army before a battle in the Thirteen Years War. A battle they won, naturally, after such a hearty meal.

Zapiekanka

Zapiekanka is every American college student’s late night food desire. Even if they’ve never heard of it. If they had, they would love it. A halved baguette is topped with cheese and toasted before other toppings and dressings are piled on. The possibilities are endless. I had one with kielbasa, fried onion, pickles, and garlic sauce (8 zloty, about $2.50) which was absolutely glorious. Future food truck endeavor? Possibly.

Barszcz

More commonly known in English as borscht, this beetroot soup that originated in Ukraine is also popular in Poland. Borscht is a staple in many eastern European countries and each one puts their own little spin on things. In Poland borscht is made, at its simplest, with red beetroot, onion, and garlic. Oftentimes it is also boiled with other vegetables such as carrots or turnips. One version I tried even contained tiny meat filled dumplings. A small cup or bowl of borscht became a favorite of mine over my week in Poland. The warmth and depth of flavor were a nice way to start a meal without being too filling.

Zurek

Another Polish soup, this one is made of soured rye flour and meat and often topped with a hard boiled egg. I stupidly managed to try this only once, in the cafeteria at Auschwitz of all places, and was immediately a fan. Though the broth is thin, the flavors are big and the egg and side of bread provided some nice sustenance. I can only imagine what this would taste like at a proper restaurant.

Placki Ziemniaczane

These Polish potato pancakes are made of shredded potato, flour, and eggs and can be eaten in a variety of ways with different toppings, both sweet and savory. This dish dates back to the 17th century when it was a staple at Polish monasteries. Today they are usually served with goulash (my favorite), sour cream, apple sauce, or mushroom sauce.

Obwarzanek

This ring shaped bread that resembles a large donut is a Krakow staple, it even has Protected Geographical Indication in the EU. The bread is boiled then baked and topped with salt, poppy, or sesame seeds. Though it looks like a bagel, the texture is decidedly different and the taste is slightly sweeter. Obwarzanek have been sold in Krakow for over 600 years and can still be found for sale at countless carts in the city center.

Paczki

In Metro Detroit, where I grew up and where there is a large group of people of Polish descent, Fat Tuesday is known as Paczki Day. Long lines form at bakeries, especially in Hamtramck, as people buy boxes of these pastries to celebrate the last day before Lent. What is a paczki (pronounced kind of like pawnchki)? Well, it’s really similar to a jelly donut, but richer. Paczki are deep fried pieces of dough filled with fruit preserves or cream and topped with powdered sugar, icing, or orange zest. After growing up eating these at least once a year I was excited to try them in Poland and was even more excited when I discovered that the Metro Detroit version seems to be a pretty authentic one.

Where to Eat in Warsaw

Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej

This place is recommended all over the Internet as the best pieorgi in Warsaw. Though I had better pierogi in Krakow, the ones here were still very good. My favorite part about Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej is that they offer half portions meaning you can try more varieties! I had the ruskie and some filled with mushrooms and sauerkraut. While I’m usually a big fan of cheese and potato filled pierogi, the ones here were a bit heavy while the mushroom and sauerkraut had the perfect amount of bite to them along with a nice variation in texture.

Bednarska 28/30. Open everyday 12:00-20:00. For more information visit their website. 

Bar Mleczny Familijny

This recommendation is more for the experience rather than the quality of the food. Bar mleczny, or milk bars, are a type of Polish cafeteria. Serving cheap but hearty dishes, milk bars reached the height of their popularity during the country’s Communist days. Now their numbers are dwindling, but Familijny remains true to its old self on a street now taken over by Starbucks and expensive foreign food. Milk bars serve Polish classics and once they are out of a dish they are out for the day. I arrived near closing time and most things were sold out so I settled on a plate of bigos and mashed potatoes for a whopping 7.80 zloty. That’s $2.50. So while it wasn’t world class, it was still tasty and cheap. Even worth getting yelled at for taking photos.

Nowy Świat 39. Open Monday-Friday 7:00-20:00 and Saturday 9:00-17:00.

Cukiernia Pawłowicz

If you’re looking for the best paczki in Warsaw, then look no further. This place is so popular, with both tourists and locals, that there is usually a line. But a line is a good thing here because it means the paczki are made fresh and served hot. The menu is in Polish, so I tried my best at pronouncing whatever appeared to be the name of the classic paczki and was pleased- a piping hot, sugar coated pastry filled with a rich fruit jam.

Where to Eat in Krakow

Pierozki U Vincenta

I ate a lot of pierogi in Poland and the pierogi here were by far my favorite. I had the pierogi ruskie with bacon and a mug of their borscht. The dumpling skin wasn’t too thick, something that had bothered me about the pierogi at other places, and the filling was rich but not too heavy. They were so I good to got a few to go for my long distance bus to Budapest that night.

Bożego Ciała 12. Open everyday 11:00-21:00. For more information visit their website.

Milkbar Tomasza

A modern milkbar near Rynek Glowny, Tomasza serves delicious Polish food at a great price. There’s a set lunch menu everyday that includes a soup and entree for 18 zloty, but nothing struck my fancy so I ordered a plate of fried chicken livers, boiled potatoes, and cabbage. It was easily my favorite meal in Poland – the liver was perfectly cooked with a lot of flavor, the prices were cheap, and  the service was friendly.

Ulica Tomasza 24. Open Monday-Saturday 8:00-22:00 and Sunday 9:00-22:00.

Polakowski

Polakowski is a small chain of self service restaurants around Krakow. While the food isn’t out of this world, it can be a good place to try some classic Polish dishes. You order from the counter and then your food is brought to you when it is ready. Once you’re done, don’t forget to clear your table and bring your dishes to the window that looks into the kitchen. I had a huge portion of golabki and a large beer for about $5.

Multiple locations. For more information visit their website. 

Pod Baranem Restauracja

I try to go to at least one “nicer” place in each city I visit and after reading about Pod Baranem in the Guardian I decided to give it a try. The wait staff has been trained at a waiters’ school (though peculiarly, it is male only) and the service is attentive and helpful. I started with a bowl of borscht with uszka, tiny pork filled dumplings, which was delicious. I made a poor, hurried last minute decision after what I originally wanted for my main course was sold out and chose duck breast with mashed potatoes. The duck was fine, but nothing special, but the mashed potatoes had definitely been microwaved. The szarlotka, Polish apple cake, with vanilla sauce was a perfect finish. Overall, it was a decent enough, reasonably priced meal. And I got a free shot of homemade fruit vodka with my bill.

św. Gertrudy 21. Open everyday 12:00-23:00. Reservation recommended. For more information visit their website.

What’s your favorite Polish dish? What Polish food sounds the best to you? 

The Lowdown on Polish Food is a post from: Farsickness

Except that never happened.

The next morning I woke up to clear skies and a delicious hostel breakfast. I made my way down to Castle Square to join a free walking tour. The guide, Beata, was gregarious and extremely knowledgeable about Poland.

We walked around Warsaw’s Old Town area as she told stories of the city’s 63 day uprising against the Nazis in the final stages of World War II and of Marie Curie, one of the most well known Warsawians. We stopped for mid-morning vodka shots and traditional Polish drinking snacks.

All the colorful buildings in the Old Town looked lovely contrasted against the deep blue sky. I spent the afternoon after the tour sipping on a beer, reading, and people watching in the Market Square.

I should have loved the city.

But for some reason I just couldn’t connect.

Like Adventurous Kate wrote about recently, Warsaw may have been a victim of timing. I had just come from Berlin, a city I absolutely loved and didn’t want to leave. I think I wouldn’t have been impressed with ANY city straight after.

I also think my less than wonderful feelings about Warsaw may have stemmed from the fact that I there wasn’t really much of interest to see. After my tour around Old Town, a visit to the Neon Museum, and taking in the view at The Palace of Culture and Science, I was stumped for things to do.

Then there was the fact that I was alone. This usually isn’t a problem but the only other people at my hostel were big groups of friends who weren’t interested in hanging out with solo me. The city was filled with cute cafes and restaurants, and even a riverside beach, that would have been perfect for enjoying the beautiful weather, but by myself I began to feel bored after a while.

Did Warsaw get a fair shot? 

I don’t know.

I went in with the best of intentions, but maybe time and circumstance got in the way of me truly seeing the city with clear eyes.

Have you ever been to a place you just couldn’t connect with?

On Not Being Wooed By Warsaw is a post from: Farsickness