A Weekend on Muuido

I’ve been attempting to get to Muuido, an island off Korea’s western coast near the city of Incheon, for what seems like ages. Rain foiled my plans on numerous occasions last summer, and this year I was not letting weather get in the way. So, last weekend, during the small pocket of time in Korea when the weather is warm but not rainy, my friends and I set out for a night on the beach.

We left early Saturday morning in order to make the most of the day. Although the trip from Seoul is not far, it takes a many means of transportation to get there. First, we took the subway to Gimpo Airport (Line 5, Line 9, and Airport Railroad) where we stopped at E Mart to stock up on snacks and food as there’s only a tiny, family run convenience store on the beach. Then we hopped on the Airport Railroad to Incheon Airport. From the airport you can take a bus, but we opted to take a much more convenient taxi (about 10,000 won) straight to the ferry terminal. Once there we purchased our round trip tickets (3,000 won) and boarded the boat for what turned out to be a two minute ride. Literally. And finally, we boarded the island’s one and only bus (1,000 won) to our final destination: Hanagae Beach.

After a mildly unpleasant thirty minute ride on an overly crowded through hilly terrain, we had arrived. Almost 3 hours later for those keeping track. Hangagae Beach is popular with foreigners (and some Koreans) because of the huts located right on the beach that are available to rent for the night. Don’t expect much, the huts are basically a small room on stilts with ondol, the traditional Korean floor heating, but they are cheap (30,000 won per night) and for me, sleeping on the beach is always fun. There’s a public restroom nearby, but ladies, make sure you bring your own toilet paper!

The most fascinating part of Muuido is the tidal patterns. When the tide is out, it is OUT. The water line had almost disappeared from sight when we first arrived and all that was remained close to the beach was the wet sad and mud that the water had once covered. The mud curved and rippled in small mounds, a reminder of the waves that had been there only a short time before. The expansive mud flat stretched on and on, looking endless as I looked out toward the horizon. We were there as the sun was getting low in the sky, casting its yellow-orange glow onto the puddles of sea water that remained and creating a magical feeling.

After the sun finished setting, campfires, though technically forbidden, began to dot the beach. Guitars, blankets, and beers were brought out and an impromptu beach party began. Unfortunately, this beach party was missing the fireworks that I happen to love and are oh so common on other beaches in Korea. I collapsed into my hut pretty early, but from the sound of it, the festivities went on until dawn.

When I stepped out of my hut Sunday morning it felt like I was in a different place. The tide had come in and the gentle lapping of the waves reminded me I was at a beach, something I’d almost forgotten the previous day. One short walk on the beach and ramen breakfast later, we decided to pack up and head out. There’s not much to do on Muuido and we were all itching to get back to the city.

Close and convenient, Muuido is a fantastic place for an overnight summer getaway from Seoul. The island is both beautiful and relaxing making it the perfect place to escape the heat and humidity of summer in the city.

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